Where to eat smørrebrød in Copenhagen_A Danish open-face sandwich from Fars Dreng

Smørrebrød 101, An Introduction to Danish Open-Face Sandwiches

The first time I had smørrebrød was with my in-laws. For lunch, my mother-in-law prepared a traditional Danish spread. She filled the table with small plates of cold sausages, fish and crème fraîche-salads; bookended by pickled vegetables and baskets of dark and light sliced bread. I watched as everyone waited for her to say, “Værsgo!” before helping themselves, and knew to anticipate my father-in-law’s meal stopping salute, “Skål!” Lunch seemed to be going well. I ate every and anything offered my way and sought inspiration from others before creating my own sandwich. But just as I began to congratulate myself on learning the family rhythm, a couple side glances signalled I was doing something wrong. It may seem uncomplicated but there are rules to be followed when making Danish smørrebrød. And, judging by my plate, I had broken every last one.

 

Classic Danish smørrebrød of pickled herring, potatoes and liver pâté.

 

Smørrebrød basics

The building blocks of smørrebrød are fairly straightforward; it’s buttered bread, a protein, a vegetable and fresh herbs. It may sound simple but the trick is knowing what is, and is never, paired. Like herring on white bread (nope) or dill with liver pâté (absolutely not!).

 

Now, one could argue that rules are meant to be broken, especially when it comes to food, and that you should create a smørrebrød to your palate’s desires. I couldn’t agree more. Channel that energy into culinary perfection. But before you do, why not get acquainted with the traditional pairings first?

 

 

Fish

Herring is typically the first course of a traditional smørrebrød lunch, followed by shellfish, chicken, red meat and then dessert. As a general rule, herring, mackerel and fish cakes go on rye bread; while salmon, halibut and shrimp are layered over a slice of white baguette. The popular fish rødspætte (European plaice) is a bit of an exception. You’ll find it served on both dark and light slices of bread.

 

Marinerede Sild (Pickled Herring)

Marinerede sild is a classic Danish smørrebrød of herring fillets marinated in vinegar, sugar, onions and black peppercorns. For the full experience, pair the sandwich with a bit of snaps. A potent glass of aquavit is the customary accompaniment for pickled herring.

 

Marinerede sild. A Danish open-face sandwich of marinated herring with red onions, capers and dill.

 

 

Stjerneskud (Shooting Star)

The dressiest of the smørrebrød, a stjerneskud is made with fried plaice, shrimp and a crème fraîche-based dressing. Unlike some open-face sandwiches that can leave you a bit peckish after lunch, a stjerneskud is a pretty filling (albeit a less common) midday bite.

 

Stjerneskud is a Danish smørrebrød with fried plaice, shrimp and a crème fraîche-based dressing.

 

 

Beef and Pork

Choosing the right bread for beef or pork smørrebrød is very simple. Always (always) pair it with a slice of dark rye bread.

 

Leverpostej (Liver pâté)

When American kids are snacking on a PB&J, their Danish counterparts are enjoying a thick slice of pâté. Leverpostej is a popular Danish spread typically made of pork liver. As smørrebrød it’s topped with pickled red beets, bacon and mushrooms or a gelatinized gravy known as sky.

 

A loaded leverpostej open-face sandwich from Hallernes Smørrebrød. Pork liver pâté with pickled red beets, lingonberries and crispy bacon.

 

 

Chicken

There’s really only one classic smørrebrød made with chicken and it’s typically served on a slice of toasted white bread.

 

Hønsesalat (Chicken Salad)

Hønsesalat is a crème fraîche chicken salad with mushrooms, asparagus and a crispy bacon topping. It’s simple but delicious, creamy and filling yet lighter than the mayonnaise-based chicken salads.

 

Hønsesalat is a Danish smørrebrød with mushrooms, asparagus and bacon.

 

 

Vegetables

There is an option for the lacto-vegetarian.

 

Kartoffelmad (Potato Sandwich)

The potato sandwich is a meat-free smørrebrød of rye bread, boiled potatoes, crunchy vegetables and an herb-infused dressing.

 

Kartoffelmad. The meat-free Danish open-face sandwich.

 

 

Where to eat smørrebrød in Copenhagen

There are plenty of places to eat smørrebrød while in Copenhagen. Here are some of the favorites among local and tourist crowds:

 

 

Etiquette

One last note to help avoid those pesky faux pas: smørrebrød is always (always!) eaten with a knife and fork.